I have been building model planes for many years (not in a competitive capacity) and have noticed that some of the
kits I bought would build up very heavy. All models will fly differently (my planes will also fly differently) but can be
built as light as you want depending on individual skills in selecting your “balsa” ~ light, but strong. For competition
flying use a removable nose block and more rubber. These are designed for 1 or 2 loops of 1/8 to 3/16 rubber.
Experiment with whatever you want. Also, if you wish, electric motors can be used if you are familiar with them. You
can experiment, change these models any way you want depending on your individual experience and type of flying
you want to do.
I have found everything I need in local hobby stores and art supply stores and I use standard free wheeling props
from Peck Polymer.
I build 2 to 4 of the same model to see the difference in flight performance. I know that you will find some of the
construction I use to be different. I try to keep the planes reminiscent of old models. They are simple but attractive,
as is any stick and tissue model.
Electric or CO-2 power would be excellent in these models. I fly them nice and slow, with 1 loop of 1/8th or 3/16th
rubber because of my small flying area. “Tan II” is great stuff. I like to push it to its limit. My personal challenge is
to get some good flight times with minimal rubber. It is not easy to do, which for me is the fun of it all. Some of my
models require more rubber for a faster more wind cutting flight. A strong breeze can be too much for a slow flyer
and create instability , but in dead calm weather, slow flyers do well and give good long flights.
These model aircraft are designed with extra lightness to split the outdoor use with indoor use as well. You can
strengthen the fuselage, add more rubber and obtain long flights outdoors. I have had good glides and up to one
minute or more flights on one loop of rubber. The fuselage length with a helper strand of micro rubber just to see
how low you can go with it and get any kind of flight at all depending on the wing span or area of the wing and size
length of the fuselage, however some planes are under-powered, so I add a helper strand or change the rubber
altogether. The designs are simple and mostly square for old box fuselage nostalgia. Model aircraft are an art
form and function, therefore everyone's concepts are different but beautiful. No model builder knows what that
model will do until he puts it to the test. You may very well have designed a model that is of contest quality. These
models are designed for the park or small field because larger fields have become a thing of the past because of
housing, commercial sites, other. The models are flat stabilizer and ClarkY. Flat bottom wing, with the proper
amount of decilage, negative incidence in the stabilizer and very little angle of attack in the wing. The glide of the
model should be pretty flat with a good amount of sink—but not too much.
Each design will need more or less wing angle of attack to produce what you want. Any well trimmed model will fly
out of sight with whatever amount of power it needs to do it. So power and thermal air are the key. A test was done
with 6 or 7 different types of air foils for glide efficiency in one of the model magazines that I read, including the
Clark Y flat. All did well, some slow, some fast glides, but the times in the air were close. An under cambered wing
and ribbed stabilizer should produce interesting results in these models especially the gliders. The one minute or
more flights that I achieved were done without stretch winding the rubber motor although the removable nose block
makes it possible to stretch wind all models (if you do) use a de-thermalizer on the stabilizer.
As for the larger rubber jobs that I build, I use more loops of rubber. Use whatever it takes to get a good climb out
to cruise with out losing the plane, but accidents will happen. I would like to say that I am an average skilled
modeler. I am now building scale planes mostly from kits to improve my modeling skills in the painting and
decorating area using Folquill and Krylon paints, etc., although these paints add a little more weight to the models.
There are good light weight kits out there. Nowadays RC56 and other white water based glues are good for stress
areas such as landing gear or wing struts. Cayno or CA Glues are what I use, but you have to be careful and use
this glue with a small tube opening supplied with most bottles or you wont be able to sand the hard spots smooth. I
use soft tissue to soak up an over applied amount. It soaks it right up, neat joints will always look smooth under
Some of this information is nothing new. A lot of great modelers have developed tricks of their own and I thought I’d
mention a few. Some of the photo’s seen here are of my larger models that will soon be made available.
NOTE: The larger plans will be priced according to copying and mailing expenses, as were the previous plans. I will
try to keep them as inexpensive as possible. Sizes for the larger models are 26 “ to 30 “ span. Some gliders are
more, 40 “ wing span.